In June/July 2023 I spent a whole month backpacking Croatia. Unlike most other Aussies, I didn’t want to pay for the classic “Sail Croatia''. Instead, I decided to plan the trip myself. So, here's what I would do if I could go back and plan the whole backpacking trip again.
Firstly, I suggest visiting in the shoulder season (May and September). During summer, prices tend to be higher and destinations will be overcrowded. Tourism in Croatia has dramatically increased after covid so visiting in quieter times will make your trip so much more enjoyable.
Getting around in Croatia is very affordable and easy. However, if you have a Eurail pass this is probably not the place for you. Many of the top destinations are islands or don’t even have a train station (such as Dubrovnik). Buses, budget flights and ferries will do you just fine!
As for a budget, I suggest €40 per day. This assumes you're staying in hostels, cooking all of your meals, limiting your drinking, doing free activities like hiking and free walking tours, and using local transport. If you want a bit more of a lux budget, with some tours and eating out now and then, I would propose around €80 per day.
There are so many amazing places to visit in Croatia… so, here is my suggested itinerary and tips on each location:
Dubrovnik
4 nights
I recommend starting from either the top or bottom of Croatia. If you are heading into the Balkans, do my route in reverse. Once you land in Dubrovnik airport, it’s a bit of a trek into the city (about an hour by bus). I didn’t realise this when I arrived so I got to my hostel after 11 pm, when the hostel check-in was closed… (don’t worry I managed to get in
eventually).
If you’re a Game of Thrones fan, Dubrovnik probably looks familiar. That's because it’s the filming location for King’s Landing! I recommend walking along the harbour paths and even visiting some of the bars along the side of the city (which are on the rocky shore). It is quite expensive to walk the city walls, but, if you buy a 3-day Dubrovnik pass (€45) it gets you entry to all the museums, the city walls and also 10 bus tickets. This is the cheapest way to do it! Otherwise, the Old Town is lovely to walk around in, with so many streets to explore. In golden hour it’s especially beautiful. Dubrovnik is also a great location to do day trips into Bosnia, Montenegro and any of the surrounding islands.
Things I recommend:
Danče Beach
Kayak to Betina Cave
Lokrum Island
Do a Game of Thrones walking tour
Dubrovnik Vidikovac (gorgeous viewpoint)
📍Stay in City Walls Hostel
Korcula Island
2 nights
Korcula is a quiet island off the coast of Dubrovnik. It takes about two hours by ferry, which is very affordable for a backpacker (Roughly €10-20). It is a very chill place and is more to explore beaches and rest. If you are looking for a busy island with lots of nightlife, skip straight to the Island of Hvar.
Things I recommend:
Day trip to Mljet National Park
Walk through the Old Town
Get a ferry taxi to Badija or Vrnik
Hire a bike and ride to Lumbarda (a sandy beach)
📍Stay in Hostel Korcula
Hvar Island
3 nights
Hvar was one of my favourite places in Croatia. So many beautiful beaches, and swimming spots! However, there are definitely fewer solo travellers and more groups stopping in Hvar. You should still be able to meet people if you stay in hostels, just beware of all the lad’s holidays around.
The famous club here is called Carpe Diem. It is the only club and requires you to get a boat to a small island. Did I mention its 40 euros entry? Controversially, I don’t think it's worth the money. However, if you are planning to go I would recommend paying for a pub crawl (roughly €60) which gets you entry and free drinks for the entire night.
Things I recommend:
Boat trip to Vis including the Blue Caves
Hire a kayak and visit secluded beaches
Hike to Napoleon Fortress Lookout for sunset
📍Stay in The White Rabbit Hostel
Split
3 nights
Split is the most iconic and busy spot in Croatia. I would say it's the most overrated, but still worth visiting. The old town is lovely and provides more filming locations for Game of Thrones. However, it is a great place to base yourself because it's very well connected, meaning it's easy to do day trips to the National Parks and nearby islands.
Things I recommend:
Day trip to Bol
Visit Krka National Park
Trip to Klis fortress which is another GOT filming location (take the 22 bus)
Walk Park šuma Marjan to find some beautiful beaches
Boat trip to the Blue Lagoon
Pub Crawls which are on every night
📍Stay in Hostel Dvor
Zadar
4 nights
Zadar was a last-minute addition to my trip and boy was I glad I went! I was pleasantly surprised at its beauty and overall vibe. It is undeniably the best place in Croatia for watching the sunset, anywhere along the seafront gives you a front-row seat. I think it's an underrated spot in Croatia and should not be missed off your itinerary.
Things I recommend:
Boat trip to Kornati National Park
Walk along the seafront (Sea Organ Steps)
Walk the old town
Go cliff jumping
📍Stay in The Lazy Monkey Hostel
(one of the best hostels I’ve ever stayed in)
Korenica
2 nights
Get the bus from Zadar to Falling Lakes hostel in Korenica which is near the Plitvice National Park. The park is well worth the trip and was one of my highlights from all of Croatia. This hostel does a daily shuttle service from the hostel to Plitvice. You can buy your ticket to the hostel at a local bus station or www.getbybus.com
The park charges €30 for a day pass, but trust me you won't regret it. But, make sure you pack some lunch and water so you don’t pay for overpriced food.
📍Stay in the Falling Lakes Hostel
Zagreb
2 nights
Zagreb is museum central as I like to call it. Some of these include the Museum of Broken Relationships, Museum of Hangovers, Museum of Selfies, Museum of Illusions and plenty more. The Museum of Broken Relationships was particularly good (and only €7 entry). Aside from Museums, there isn’t too much else to do, but I still really enjoyed my time. If you could only visit a few places and skipped Zagreb, you wouldn’t be missing an awful lot… but, it is a nice city break to finish your trip around Croatia and also has great connections with other nearby countries such as Slovenia. Also recommend going to Pula. I didn’t make it there on my travels but have only heard good things!
📍Stay in the Swanky Mint Hostel
Other things you should know
1. Cash is essential: so many places in Croatia, especially the islands, only accept cash. Be careful not to withdraw cash on the islands itself because the ATMs will charge you insane fees
2. You can get fined for just wearing a bikini: Make sure when you aren’t on the beach you cover-up. In Croatia, it's considered a finable offence if you are dressed “indecently”
3. Learn the language: Have the courtesy to learn the basics of the language, but a lot of Croatians do speak English (Hello: Zdravo, Thank you: Hvala vam)
Croatia is one of the most beautiful coastal countries in Europe and is worth exploring. Let me know if you have any questions, my DMs are always open!
Thank you, love Amy ♡
how did you get from split to zadar?